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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.